For years I have wanted to visit Oriente (eastern region of Cuba) especially after hearing it was the birthplace of the musical styles known as son and changüi. These styles captivated my interest by their inclusion of the bongo and essentially acoustic instrumentation. I have made three previous trips to Cuba but my trip to Santiago de Cuba was the most spectacular.   Santiago is filled with a rich history and culture explodes from every crevice .

A few months before my trip I  received a brochure in the mail on The Eleggua Project.  This project is organized by Canada Cuba Sports and Culture to promote cultural exchange between North America and Cuba non-governmental agencies. The intensive workshop and field study in Oriente on  AfroCuban music and dance fascinated me.

I've learned to always maintain some form of humor when traveling in Cuba. Expecting to fly from Toronto to Santiago we soon discovered in Toronto that our plane would be   flying to Holguin (about a 3 hour bus ride to Santiago). My friend Holly and I arrived at Holguin airport midday in the tropical heat and humidity  expecting to meet with our contact  from The Eleggua Project.   I wasn't surprised when nobody  seemed to know anything about our contact.   This was just part of the adventure.  Thinking that there had been  the usual miscommunication I began inquiring how much a taxi would cost to Santiago. I thought I would wait until  three other American ladies ,who were program participants,   would pass through customs and we could all catch a taxi together.

Two hours passed and there was still no sign of the American ladies. I eventually asked a bus driver if he knew which bus would be going to our hotel  the Villa Gaviota.   He pointed to a small bus at the end of the parking lot. I ran over to the driver and awakened him from his nap. He pointed to our contact person  at the front of the terminal holding a tiny sign with  scarcely legible handwriting. After waiting another hour we finally learned that  the three American ladies had been sent back to Canada via Montreal . Apparently they had required special papers. Something to do with  El Papa's visit to Cuba later in January. Three days later they returned to Cuba with the program coordinator and were permitted entry into Cuba.

Carlos (our guide), driver, Holly, Pei  a  young Taiwan student studying in the US and I drove to Santiago in a small bus. About an hour out of Holguin our bus broke down and we had to wait in Bayamo for about four hours until another bus  could meet us. In Bayamo I noticed an incredible amount of air pollution not only from the diesel vehicles but also smoke stacks spewing black smoke. It was a welcome relief when our new bus arrived to take us to Santiago.

The following day we began our classes with the international folkloric group Cutumba.The program  included song class, folkloric percussion/dance, history (with Prof.Ernesto Arminan Linares) and popular percussion/dance. Each day we studied a new style  of music and dance. Styles  included vódú, gagá, rumba,conga, son, chachachá, palo, yoruba, arara and  tumba francesa (mason, yuba, frente).  

During our   lunch breaks we explored the city of Santiago  visiting stores, museums, galleries and clubs.  One day during our lunch break we heard the folkloric groups Basumby, Yuma and Impacto at Casa Estudiantes. Another day we visited EGREM recording studio and purchased some CD's at the EGREM store. Classes usually finished at 4pm and we would return to the hotel for a rest or swim.  Breakfast and dinner were provided daily in the Villa Gaviota Hotel dining room.  The hotel also had a beautiful swimming pool open to  local Cubans and hotel guests.

In the evening we would return to the heart of the city to a concert  club or restaurant for music and dance.  The first day in Santiago we visited Casa de la Trova  during our lunch break.  After talking to the store clerk next to the Trova, I learned that there was a special concert that evening with some of the artists who had appeared on the Ry Cooder CD (Buena Vista Social Club) that Holly had given to me   for Christmas before leaving Canada.  The  concert at Teatro Heredia   featured 90 year old Francisco Repilado (a.k.a.Company Seguendo), Eliades Ochoa and Cuartero Patria, Familia Miranda and   Los Guanches.  The concert was fabulous with  a skillful bongocero   display by Roberto Torres (Cuarteto Patria) and a moving performance of "Chan Chan"  by Company Seguendo and Cuarteto Patria (which became our signature tune during our trip).

At the Casa de la Trova we heard  Sexteto Sones de Oriente and several other son   groups. At Artex Patio we saw Estudiantina Invasora with no bongocero but  a percussionist who  played a set of antiquated timbales (paila criolla) that looked like miniature timpani drums. On New Years Eve we, along with the rest of Santiago, heard Son 14 at Plaza de Cespedes . The next day we heard Ojeva Negro and had typical Cuban food (Moro y Cristiano/ arroz congri) at Teatro Heredia.

Other evening events included  hearing very talented young players from the group Tivoli at the top of  Hotel Casa Granda  and  a variety of groups including an all women batá group at Casa del Estudiante. We made the traditional pilgrimage to the ritzy Santiago Hotel one night to see a sleazy ala Las Vegas/Karaoke show. The redeeming factor was a good son group who opened with a killer version  of  "Bilongo".

One day we made a day trip to Guantanamo. Upon our arrival we walked around the city observing the beautiful architecture which is present throughout the cities of Oriente.   On  Calixto Garcia Street  I was surprised to find a stately building with the name Royal Bank of Canada engraved in stone. Probably a remnant  built just prior to the revolution. In the morning we heard some changüí  played by some seasoned veterans called Grupo Seguidores del Changüí. I am very interested in this style of music because of the primary role of the bongo  and  there is very little information on changüi in   North America.  The bongos are larger and  lower in pitch than bongos used  in son.  The role of the bongocero is different within the group. Instead of playing the standard  martillo pattern, the bongocero plays a series of short staccato beats between the macho (small) and hembra (large) drum.  A conversation is conducted between the tres (three double string guitar) and the bongo.  The bongocero positions the bongos between the legs either in the standard form as in son or in reverse position depending on their preference.

After the changüi  performance, we had lunch at  Hotel Guantanamo. Apparently   Charanga Habanera was performing at the hotel later that evening, but we were not able to stay for the performance.  In  the afternoon  we drove to the   Tumba Francesa Society headquarters to see a special performance of  tumba francesa organized especially for our group. The society members were  very hospitable and encouraged us to join  them in dancing and  drumming.

We visited many museums including the Carnival, Centro Cultural Africano Fernando   Ortiz,  and  Casa de Diego Velázquez. We also made a day trip to El Cobre (20 km northwest of Santiago) to see the  Shrine of Our Lady of Caridad, the most sacred pilgrimage site in Cuba. Discovered  by three fisherman in 1606,   the wooden image of the Virgin was brought to the copper mines  at El Cobre and  became a sacred symbol for Catholics and followers of Santeria. In Santeria, The Virgin of Caridad is associated with Ochún.

Since culture was our priority we didn't spend much time at the beach. The day before we left we spent the afternoon at  a gorgeous beach called Playa Siboney.

Our last evening we were invited by Director Lic.Ernesto Arminan to Instituto Superior de Ciencias (medical school) where we had a private concert by  the folkloric group "3 De Diciembre" .  This group is comprised of doctors and medical students who have performed  and  won numerous awards internationally. Some of the styles presented included zapateo, tumba francesa, fiesta del guamo y vacín, Ogún, and other Hatian influenced dance. After the performance we met with the group for a discussion. We learned that they incorporate  the arts in most of their professional institutes.   They recognize the importance of balancing  the arts (music, dance and theater) with their academic studies for optimum mental health.

The two  weeks I spent in Oriente were filled with many wonderful memories. The kindness of the Cuban people, the beautiful  stately architecture, lush green   mountains and valleys  and the immense wealth of culture will continue to nurture my desire to return soon.